krishnan kartha's travel blog

Chiang Rai in Northern Thailand

2011-06-10T08:34:00.000-07:00

My trip to Chiang Rai in Thailand was between 4th and 15th June 2011. The access was by air upto Bangkok from Chennai and further by road.

The double decker in which we travelled from Bankok to Chiang Rai and Back

Chiang Rai is a province and also a city in Northern Thailand. It is in the Burmese border of Thailand.The city was founded by King Mengrai in 1262 and became the capital of the Mengrai dynasty. Subsequently, Chiang Rai was conquered by Burma and remained under Burmese rule for several hundred years. After Siam or Thailand annexed Chiang Mai in 1899 Chiang Rai was proclaimed a province of Thailand in 1933.

Chiang Rai Bus Terminal

The province Chiang Rai is famous for its hot springs. I could not visit any of them. Recent earthquake in Burmah (Myangmar) had affected Chiang Rai also. The recent eruptions of hot springs around 20km away has threatened the people with a volcanic eruptions. The prices have come down for properties in Bandu where I lived for some days.

The road to Chiang Rai from Bangkok was a four track highway with less traffic. It passed through many small hamlets and towns.
The divider was decorated with flower beds and lawn. I noticed that many flowering plants which we grow in India in a different way, have been used for highway decoration.

The light green plant seen here is nothing else than Duraanta, which is commonly used in India. The red flowers seen amidst green leaves are of Ixora ( Ixora Coccinnea) .( In Kerala it is Chethy or Thetti )

Another common feature along the road was decorated bill boards having the picture of King of Thailand or the queen. Every circle or junction used to have this.

In the raod in front of the Palace in Bangkok, the events in the life of the present king is protrayed in central posts. (This I have added in a different blog.)

Chiang Rai has a place in Thai history and religion.In 1432 during the reign of King Sam Fang Kaen of Mangrai dynasty (1402–1441) the Phra Kaeo, or Emerald Buddha, the most revered Buddha statue, was discovered in Chiang Rai when an earthquake split the Chedi at Wat Phra Kaeo of Chiang Rai City. The beautiful jade figure was then seen concealed within. Another telling of the story has the 'Emerald Buddha' hastily covered in mud just before marauders entered to pillage. It wasn't until many years later, that the clunky-looking mud Buddha was found to actually house the magnificent jade statue, perhaps by way of the earthquake mentioned above - which caused a piece of the clay to break off - revealing the jade beneath

However, emerald Buddha is adorned in many other temples of Chaing Rai as a souvenir. We visited a nearby Buddha temple out of curiosity, though nothing of its charm was known from the main road other than this sign board:

Similar signboards are seen in front of houses and establishments. Some portray King's picture while some have their own family pictures ! The size of the board will be smaller for houses, however.

We walked along the lane and crossed one culvert. The gate was visible.

But this is perhaps one of the ordinary temples we have seen on the way to Chiang Rai from Bangkok on the side of the highway.

As soon as we entered the courtyard the monk in charge of the temple came running in appreciation and welcomed us in.

The king and queen are seen on the verandah of the temple also.

Knowing that we were from India he showed a CD and played it. We thought it might be some manthra or someting. To our surprise it was an album of nostalgic hindi film songs starting with " neele gagan me chale" ending with "Dum Maaro DUm" of Bobby!. One may doubt what prompted him to play that CD in the temple but really it had a different meaning to me. The songs proved to be charming and enchanting in that atmosphere.

The altar of the Bandu village Buddha temple.

An enlarged replica of Emerald Buddha is also seen.

The Picture of the Thailand king in the attire of a monk

is also kept near the altar.

The replica of the Emerald Buddha

The close up of the face of the emerald buddha

But after taking a group photo with the Monk, I sat in front of him as if for a dialogue though the language was alien. He didnt know English.

He went into a meditation in front of me. We sat together there for some time.

The interior lured our eyes. We got up an explored each corner of the interior.

On our left ( right of the altar) there is a sitting place covered with soft velvette drapery.

I think venerable persons are to be seated here.

I sat on the floor and enjoyed the seat with a touch.

The altar

There were many idols of Buddha in various styles.

The doorways and windows brought cool breeze in and soft light in the most adequate way for the spiritual journey to within.

There were drawing on the window panes.

The close study of artefacts in the altar of the Buddha temple

A throne is kept near the altar on the left side.

Close study of the throne near the altar

Near a picture of the King garbed as a Sannyasin,

a ball of thread, candles etc are kept

Close study of the artefacts.

Besides the altar a cradle like stand is kept where

fans and other items are kept

The blue and yellow things are fans it seems

Close up of fans with engraved pictures

And the fan has a stand too!

The Big Ben.

The temple interior is adorned with several paintings. They are of recent origin it seems. They depict different events in the Buddha's life.

When we finished exploring the interior,

we could see the monk still in meditation.
Hence we came out and enjoyed the serene courtyard

he is posing for the picture. Dont think that he has been arrested by the authorities!

Close up of the dragon
Side view of the verandah
Side view of the temple

There were mango trees in the courtyard. Gazebos to sit and chat were also provided as you can see. A bunch of bananas and a pot of water were kept under a tree for public consumption!.

Around the temple there are sheds. Some of them contain Buddha idols.
One cart painted Gold, was also spotted there.

On the Northwest corner, a soldier like idol was being worshipped in a small sanctum sanctorum.

I thought this is like kshetrapalaka (temple protector) in Hindu temples.
We located a solitary edifice on the South East corner of the courtyard.

Library cum guest house in the silent zone.

We walked to that building. None was seen there. Apart from the Bikku (monk) who was on meditation , apainter was the only human being in that premises. That was a library cum dormitory. An altar was also erected for personal worship. Adjacent toilets and bathrooms revealed that guests are frequently accommodated. We waited to see the Bikku to get up so that we could seek better accommodation here.

A stupa is being built behind the temple. A single painter is doing the work in a slow pace.

Nagara in Kollur- Theerthahalli route in Karnataka

2011-06-01T05:13:00.000-07:00

We visited Nagara on 14th May 2011 on our way to Sringeri from Kollur. Our team consisted of Alleppey Jayan, Kottarakkara Jayan, Kannan, Srinidhy, Anil, Lekshmi, Lijin Thamban, Ratheesh , Sajitha, Usha Kiran Laly besides Madhukar and Giridhar

Nagara is a village in Shimoga district of the state of Karnataka, India. It is 17 km from Hosanagara or 84 km from Shimoga. This was called "Bidanoor" earlier during the 16th century, this was the last capital city of Keladi rulers. In 1763, Hyder Ali captured this area. Shivappanaika palace, fort, Devaganga tank, Neelakenteshwara temple and Gudde Venkataramana Swamy temple are worth to visit. The fort is built on a small hill, beside a lake. The fort has a system to circulate water around it for safety. On the hill, within the fort, there are Darbar Hall (King's Court), remains of a palace, two tanks called Akka Thangi Kola (Tanks of two sisters), and a cannon. Devaganga tank is a cluster of seven tanks for bathing. Nagara in Kannada language literally means city. The place is amidst green thick forests which are giving way to urbanisation and eventually to deforestation. Kollur Mookambika temple is 40 kms from here

Nagara fort

ponds
a view from the fort
plaque depicting the history of the durbar hall
durbar hall another view
durbar hall from top
top of the fortressheard that there was a cannon on top of this fortress
a local deity being worshipped by the caretaker
wooden door is still safe!
a side door for entry
niche for lamp at the fort gate
Tirthahalli road from the top of the fort

Companions of KK in front of Nagara fort

Krishnan Kartha visits Kualalumpur in August 2010

2011-05-20T08:11:00.001-07:00

Topstation near Munnar

2011-03-27T21:30:00.001-07:00

Vatavada with Jayesh Divakaran

2011-03-27T20:52:00.000-07:00

Jayesh Divakaran took us to his Eucalyptus plantation in Vattavada between Munnar and Kerala State border. The temperature recorded in the airtight room in his cottage during night was 9 degree celcius. The place is not rich in fauna except for an ocaasional herd of bison which may accidentally come across. Kodaikanal is walkable distance from here, and many Tamilian plantation workers frequent to this place by walk. The cook Chelladurai for the first time prepared veg dishes for Jayesh's friends and they wer delicious. The vegetable available at Vattavada town is pure,free from chemicals and fresh. They taste better than the ones available in cities in Kerala. The jeep road to his cottage is steep and very adventorous. Luckily some other planter had filled earth in the big pits on the road to bring down cut logs and hence the path was comparitively better. Mohan Lal had acted in some film as a jeep driver in this area , I was told, and the scenes were breath taking. The heat of the fire is never felt here as the place is very cool. A small river goes down the hill near the cottage. Jayesh told that it was a big river and the plantation has made it small.

more pictures to be uploaded....

Kudajadri trekking.

2011-02-21T02:59:00.000-08:00

Panch Kedar Trekking 5 Tunganath

2007-06-02T18:29:00.001-07:00

Facts
Tunganath temple is situated on the highest altitude in Himalayan Region,13,072 feet from the sea level, as the word means in Sanskrit. “Tunga” is peak and “Nath” is lord. Tunganath literally means “Lord of the Peak”.It is an abode of Lord Siva and one of the Panch Kedars , the five Kedar temples dediocated to Lord Siva, the important among them being the Kedarnath, which is visited by millions of tourists and trekkers every year. The high altitude temple is a Seat of Swyambhu Linga . The temple, is situated in Chamoli district of the Uttaranchal State of India. The Tunganath temple, on the inner Himalayan range, is among a few shrines situated at a height of more than 13,000 feet from the sea level. This gives it the magic of its own. To get there, one passes through the most delightful temperate forests in the Garhwal Himalaya.

Location and Approach

Kedar and Badri are connected by a route, which breaks off from Kund (in the Rudraprayag - Kedar route) and connects to Chamoli (in the Rudraprayag – Badri route) through Ukhimath, Chopta, Mandal and Gopeswar. About 70 kms from Kund is Chopta (On Gopeshwar-Ukhimath road, lies picturesque chatti of Chopta, (42 km from Gopeshwar and 30km from Ukhimutt) which serves as the base for the Tunganath temple. (From Rishikesh, one can easily reach Karnaprayag and then Gopeshwar (212 km from Rishikesh. Reaching Rishikesh from Delhi is just problem free. One can also go up to the Jolly Grant airstrip near Dehradun by an occasional plane). At Ukhimath and Gopeshwar there are GMVN Rest Houses D 180 dormi bed 48.

There is a bus called “bhookhadthal” from Ukhimutt in the morning (around 7.30am) which takes you to Choptha in one hour and a half .Bhookhadthal means hunger strike. This bus service might have been started thanks to such an agitation.! (Ukhimutt is around 15 km from Guptakashi)

A Blog report dated 9th April 2007 says the road between Gopeswar and Ukhimutt via Choptha is in very bad condition.

Choptha, the base to Tnuganath Trekking

Chopta is situated at a height of 12,000 ft from sea level. Though a scenic spot neglected by the tourism department, greenery around Chopta is in abundance, perhaps because the place is also called Cherapoonji of Uttarakhand. However, the tourist rest house owned by the Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN) is a boon to the traveller. But a larger infrastructure needs to be developed there. From Chopta, an ascending trek of three km. takes one to the temple of Tunganath. The elevated journey instils a sense of fulfilment. What appeals in Chopta at 12,000 ft, is the silence and the absolute lack of the typical touristy environ

Trekking Journey to Tunganath

The trek from panoramic Chopta to Tunganath is between three to four km (and this distance can be covered in 3 hr.) but in that distance one ascends several hundred feel. The whole stretch is filled with rows of beautiful rhododendrons and avenues of pine trees. The feeling of uplift strengthens one to gaze at the ranges and the valleys for hours. The time seems to freeze here endlessly. Myriads of wild flowers and especially the blooming rhododendrons in summer heal the fatigued soul. Besides, dense oak and deodar forests, Alpine pastures, mountain ranges, diverse flora and fauna, and above all perpetual tranquillity drain out the human worries.

A journey to Tunganath is simply inspiring and divine. An ultimate destination with unequal and unparalleled splendour. The place exerts its magic on all who reach there with open mind and clear heart. Though comparatively small in dimensions, the temple leave an indelible mark because of its setting and the solid granite slabs from which it is built stoutly.

One can see the Himalayan ranges in their awesome avatar from this place except in case of clouds and rains, which are in plenty there. Weather is so uncertain that by the time you take a decision to make a move, there is rain or thunders.

The environment is so hypnotic and mystic that nobody bothers to think about the worldly things. One can only find him or her under a spell of divine spell wondering how and why the mountains invoke divinity in the mortal beings.

The place looks like a perfect wilderness. On reaching Tunganath, at a height of 13,072 feet from the sea level and below Chandrashila peak, one finds nothing between earth and the sky except rocks. The 50-feet something high ancient temple is the highest Shiva shrine in the region.

At Tunganath

The temple isn’t visible till you reach about 100 mts from its gates. The ribboned red flag atop the temple is symbolic enough to tell you, you are very close to the temple.The simple and somber granite temple is small compared to the other temples of the region. Locals from Chopta & villagers from Sari and beyond, have a couple of food shanties for the pilgrims. The other main concrete structure is the temple committee building.

The arched gateway of the temple leads you to a small open veranda. Tiny canary yellow flowers peeped from each crevice between the rocks giving it almost a kitsch feel at your feet. On one side of the foyer is the Ishaneshwar temple, a common feature of all Shiva temples here. The temple has a kund, which spurts up bubble on claps or other sound waves. Among several idols in the sanctum sanctorum there is a longish Shiva idol, believed to be the arms of Tunganath. Facing the doorway is a small idol of Nandi. A little into the temple premises, there are five small temples, barely 1 to 1.5 mt in ht, representing the Panchkedar. The shops outside the temple sell the essentials if you wish do puja . “Live for a month here and you will never leave”. said a sadhu in orange robes, and a mini auburn ’tunga’ of locks piled into a neat heap on his head, who stays behind the temple in a cave.

At Tunganath, very ordinary facilities are available but irrespective of that more than 10,000 pilgrims and tourists visit this divine place every year either to pay their obeisance to Lord Shiva or to just experience the panoramic views from the place. beyond the temple and one or two priests practically this place was empty when I went there in the month of June, during which the weather is congenial.

As you keep moving around, the multitude of clouds flicker touching your body and purified soul. This is how Hinduism comes closest to being a nature religion.

Other trekking possibilities from Choptha

Dugalbitha is just at a distance of seven km from Chopta. A government bungalow there is available for the tourists on permit. A little ahead is Sari village from where an ascension of two km takes one to Deoriyataal or lake (8,000 ft) in which an image of mammoth Chaukhambha is quite awesome and inspiring. Local taxies are available to Sari village from where trekking to Deoria Taal lake (8km ) is started.It is believed that the famous “YAKSHAPRASNA” episode of Mahabharata took place at this lake.

A little ahead of the Tunganath temple is Chandrashila peak or mountain of the Moon. The place is wrapped in mysticism where one is completely lost, perhaps trying to redefine one's own existence and the meaning of the very existence. Harmony is most evident in these remote places, reminding every moment that here is a place after all where Gods and mountains co-exist.

From Chandrashila (14,000 ft), a very great section of the Himalaya is visible. Legend has it that Goddess Chandrama (Moon) had spent a long time here in a penance. Bandarpoonchh, Chaukhambha, Neelkanth, Nandadevi, and several other peaks are clearly visible from this place. Chaukhambha (25,000 ft) looks so close as if at an arm's distance. The peaks also remind one of the fables that they are the ladders to the heavens. Nandadevi is of course clouded most of the times. Besides, a large part of Garhwal is seen from here, far away valleys and all that that is the grandeur of Garhwal. On the background of Tunganath is Ravanashila, where Ravana is believed to have accomplished tapa or penance. Wild buffaloes are regularly is site there.

The “Bhookhadthal” bus coming from Ukhimuut will take you to Gopeswar the next base station from where trekking to Rudranath Temple starts

Panch kedar Trekking Part 4 Rudranath

2007-05-28T05:53:00.000-07:00

by G.S.Krishnan Kartha

There are different ways for trekking to Rudranath. Most of the people start from the village of Sagar, motorable from Choptha, the base of Tunganath trek. Another way is to trek from Mandal which is also on the road between Ukhimut and Kalpeswar.

To reach the village of Sagar,one has to go to the town of Gopeshwar and get a jeep from there to Sagar, which is 6 km away. From Sagar to Rudranath is a tough 22 km. Earlier trek had to be done in one day since there were no proper amenities to set up shelter at Panar Gufa (Gufa means cave) a village en route. Panar is a bugyal (meadow)on a plateau and is a sort of old deserted encampment.

Another approach to Panar is from Mandal, another small village, where you have a PWD rest house also.Staying in the rest house and trekking from the thin hours are better than motoring to Sagar from Gopeswar and trekking in the hot sun. Apart from the PWD rest house, there is one Bhagat Bisht' is running a Hotel, directly opposite the archway proclaiming "Anusuya Mata Mandir Marg".

The trekking path from Sagar to Panar

Within an hour after we start we come to a dense forest with absolutely no trails. It is unusually thick and we have to just keep climbing without much idea if no guide/ porter is accompanying you. It is really exciting to walk in a pathless silent forest, with only the steady tramp of our feet and a few birdcalls from here and there. A fallen tree may block your way now and again. Like the evergreen forests in Kerala, the golden rods of sunshine fall through the chinks in the canopy are rare. But here, they are the sole source of warmth in the freezing atmosphere of the forest.

If the weather is adverse, a drizzling can grow into a downpour and keeping plastic sheets and raincoats ready is a must in this trek. If you are in a bugyal (meadow), you will be totally drenched since there will be no shelter. However in deep woods on the track, the dense canopy above us will protect us from getting soaked. Another possibility during downpour is the chance of your biscuit supply getting exhausted easily since you won’t have any other thing to do other than biting biscuits! So take precaution to store sufficient number of cookies.

Alternative path from Mandal to Panar

Bhagat can arrange porters for you to carry tenting materials and provisions for cooking.The initial phase of trek is to Anasuya Mata a hamlet in the route. It is an easy 5 km trek from Mandal. The path go along a stream called Balkhilya Nadi winding through through forests and terraced fields of paddy. Irrigation channels and paddy fields imply cultivation and inhabitance in this region. An occasional double storeyed building with a dish antennae stands a stark contrast with the sylvan nature.

When we complete a steep ascent, wr can see a dilapidated tin shed houses an orange colour idol of Lord Ganesh, probably monolithic. A water tap offering drinking water is also found nearby. The placement is quite unknown but it seems people have started to worship the lord.

Anasuya Mata is reached by 11 Am if you trek from early hours. The temple is surrounded by thick forest-laden mountains on all sides. In order to protect the livestock from carnivore the houses here are built on top of a cowshed. There are facilities to stay in the temple and the authorities will provide blankets.

From Anusuya there is a beautiful path leading up into the forest. After a couple of kms there is a bifurcation with the one path on the right leading to the unique meditation cave of Atri Muni which has a waterfall as its curtain! (Reminds one of Phantom’s cave).This water fall is named as Atri Dhaara.

The path between Anasuya and Panar is gentle initially.After about 4 hours of trekking we come to a grassy knoll overlooking the Anusuya Mata village.We may be astonished to find to have climbed so high so soon. The narrow path in the thick mountain grass is very slippery and often we have to grab at handfuls of grass to arrest our fall.On the way a shepherd's hut on stilts at the Hamsa-Bugiyal, where we can find some cups of tea.

Once we cross the bugyal the landscape changes to crags and peaks and cliffs and sheer drops. At one place there is a ridge between two high peaks on either side with stones placed in asymmetrical dedication. The path is rough and rugged though the landscape suddenly changes that the slopes of the mountain are clad in lavender rhododendrons.There may be ice fields too depending on the weather and the period of the year. The porters (who act also as guides) are capable of taking you to though the ice sheets safely.

Panar

The view from Panar was really something. It was truly incredible. The meadow was dotted with wild flowers and down below the valley stretched out with the sides carpeted with tiny flowers.

Overnight stay at Panar in tents and proceeding the trek next morning is the best thing to do. Before the sun is up, it is a real delight to climb up those grassy slopes with hardly any tracks except those made by goats and shepherds. Wild strawberries are galore in this stretch of path also. When the forenoon is approaching the sky will be clear and rays from the sun will be hotter too. A sun hat is advised to avoid sunstroke during trekking.

Coniferous forests replace the thick forests after this upto a rocky plain called Dhanpal maidan.
This is the last point where there is any possibility of obtaining drinking water. After this the undulating grassland path starts again and respiration becomes heavy due to gaining altitude. Shortly the Nyla Pass at 14000 feet above sea leavel is reached.
At Nyla pass the visibility is less due to fog and frequent drizzling. This necessitates a guide’s help. Narada Kund - a natural spring of fresh water with a small temple and an archway with bells is the next point. From Narada Kund the steep mountain path leads to a landing which is about 10 feet across with a steep fall of about 250 feet on one side and a near vertical mountainside on the other.
You can see a few huts on this mountainside which can provide shelter to some pilgrims. The huts are wooden structures with corrugated tin roofing. A fireplace provides the only light within the hunt. The Small windows are the source of ventilation. The floor is wooden as we see in kedar.
The path leads to a small hut etched into the mountain. This is the famous temple of Rudranath.

The temple at Rudranath is In fact , a cave set deep in the rock. The lingam is covered with a silver face, which has quite a fierce aspect. It is only in the next morning when the mask is removed that we see the actual lingam, with Shiva’s face. It is benign and beautiful with half closed eyes. Measuring about 3 feet from the chin to the top of the jatas, a white cloth remains bound tightly on the crown of Lord Shiva.

A legend says that a cowherd king seeing one of his cows without milk, saw one day that the cow poring milk on a small rock. An angry king’s sword fell on the cow but it got stuck at the rock instead,and the rock started to bleed. Getting frightened the kind built a temple and started worship.The white cloth covers the wound. It is removed during morning abhisheka.

According to the legends of Panch Kedar, this temple shelters the face of Shiva. There is a small rectangular space just outside the sanctum sanctorum. The deity is a Swyam Bhuva (Self Appeared) Shivalinga shaped like a human face formed by the projection of a huge rock. This face has a serene smile and a gaze of pure benevolence in the all-seeing eyes., which I did not see removed during the day and a half spent here.

There is a natural ledge overhanging this face from where droplets of water fall perennially. The temple is very damp and cold with small puddles here and there. There are a few pieces of flat wood on which the pujari or temple priest and his assistant stand during the performance of the elaborate rituals.

The large half open eyes of the deity are kept covered with larger golden coverings. The enormous upturned, golden moustaches transform this face into a terrifying angry face. Every evening, in elaborate worship, the mask is removed from the face of Shiva to give a brief glimpse of a rarely-sighted aspect of Shiva. This is the only temple of Shiva where his face is his symbol.

On the mountainside above this temple are a few smaller rock Siva temples In a cave here ,are a few enormous weapons including swords and maces, as well as precious ornaments. These are believed to belong to the Pandavas hence this cave is also called Pandava Cholas..

Previously there were no arrangements for stay in Rudranath other than a shepherd’s hut. If the priest is willing and amenable you will be invited to stay with him in his place.But none can predict his behaviour. The priests as you have read, change between themselves and if you go by a travelogue given by someone, you may go astray! The kind and benevolent priest in that story would have been transferred to kedar or Tunganath by the time you reach there.

The Shepherd’s hut is made of granite with a fireplace in the middle.The cloud of smoke emanating from the fireplace may suffocate you since the atmosphere is already running short of oxygen. Adding fuel to the fire will be the smoke from the country cigarettes (beedies) the shepherds smoke. So if you are allergic to such an environment you had better avoid this trekking.

The morning will welcome you with breathtaking sights of Trishul and Nanda Devi, the roaring peaks sandwiching the area of the temple.This will certainly relieve you from pains.The roaring peaks are unbelievably close and touched with gold as the sun slowly rise.

Every morning there is routine pooja at the temple with abhishekasm and other ceremonies. This temple closes before any of the other Panch Kedars, and during the long winter months Pujas are offered to the Deity from Gopinath temple at Gopeshwar.

If you stay for a couple of days or atleast a day further, you may be able to walk to Surya Kund, Chandr kund ,Tara Kund and Manasa Kund ,the springs around Rudranath and the legendary Vaitharani River.It is also heard that the Brahm Kamal flower grows in these region. This is the river that has to be crossed by the departing souls before they enter the next world. So some hardy people do come here to do rites for their departed ancestors.

It is an incredibly long and tiring trek to Mandal where a PWD rest house is available for stay.The path is not different from the one from Sagar from Panar Gufa.IF you walk down without a longer halt at Panar Gufa, you will reach Mandal after sunset. The accommodation at Mandal is comfortable.

Second Char Dham Rudranath Kalpeswar Tunganath Trip in July-August 2007 from Madhuavam

2007-05-28T03:56:00.000-07:00

Second Himalayan Trip from Madhuvanam Trivandrum

After the first trip in 1992, the Madhuvanam team from Trivandrum plans for a second trip to Himalayas comprising of 28 days
Day 1 Departure from Trivandrum by train
Day 2 In train
Day 3
Arriving Delhi
Proceeding to Haridwar by bus
Darshan of Ganga river at Haridwar
Evening Ganga Deepa Arathi at Paramartha Nikethan/Hari Ki Pauri Ghat,
Stay at Haridwar
4
Ancestral rites at Ganga at HAri Ki pauri Ghat
in the morning-After breakfast departure by bus for Rishikesh
At Rihikesh,visit Lekshman Jhoola,Geetha Bhavan,
Sivananda Ashram Lunch at Sivananda Ashram,Vasistha Guha
Night stay at Rishikesh Sathya Sai Kendra,Tapovan
5
leave Rishikesh by bus for Yamunotri route-
Arrive Sayanachatti by bus by afternoon
Trek to Jankichatti 6km
Night stay at Jankichatti Choultrey (2,676ft above sea level
6
Early Morning proceed Trekking to Yamunotri 8 Km
Enroute breakfast and lunch
Origin of Yamuna,Bath in Hot spring
(The temple of Yamunotri falls on the left bank and was originally constructed by Maharaj Pratap Shah of Tehri Garhwal. Near the temple are three hot springs. The most important, Surya Kund, is a tank full of boiling water into which rice and potatoes are dipped to be cooked and taken as “prasad”. Near the Kund, a rock slab, the “Divya Shila” is worshipped before puja is offered to the black marble idol of Yamuna. The shrine of Yamunotri is one of the "four dhams" of Uttarakhand. The source of Yamuna lies above 1 km. ahead at an altitude of about 4421 meters. The approach is extremely difficult and pilgrims therefore offer puja at the temple itself.)
Return/14km walking down to Sayana chatti base
Procedd by bus to Uttarakashi Night Stay at Uttarakashi
7
Uttarakashi Temple Darshan and Rudra Chanting
After breakfast by bus to Gangorti
Bath at Ganganani Tapth Kund-Reach Gangotri
Darshan at Gangotri temple
Night stay at Gangotri (NO TREKKING)
8
Early morning trekking starts to Gomukh Glacier
(Origin of Ganga) Brekfast at Cheedwasa enroute,
Lunch at Lalbihari Baba Ashram,Bhojwasa
Night stay in Tents near Gomukh
9
Trekking to Gomukh continues- Arrives Gomukh
(Gomukh is the tip of Ganga Glacier where River Ganges becomes first visible as flowing water-)
Rudra Japa at Gomukh- Collection of Gangajal Return walk to Gangotri Bus base camp
Leave by Bus for Uttarakashi
Reaching Uttarakashi and night stay
10
Leave Uttarakashi for Kedarnath route by bus
On the way Darshan at Guptha kashi temple
(here from both sides of the idol Ganga and Yamuna is seen originated.This comes to the courtyard of the temple and one can take bath in both waters there.The two streams are identically different in taste,colour and temperature!)
Proceed to Triyuginarayan temple by bus
(Triyuginarayan is the place where, Lord Vishnu conducted the wedding of Lord Siva and Goddess Parvathy.)Enroute breakfast and lunch
Arrive Rampur by bus and night Stay at Choultrey there.
NO TREKKING
11
Leave Rampur for Kedarnath Reach gaurikund
Start trekking to Kedar from Gaurikund
Arrive Kedarnath /Darshan and Rudra chanting
Night stay at Kedarnath Choultrey
12
After Darshan of Kedarnath start return Trekking to Gaurikund.by 8 Am Brekfast enroute
Arrive Gaurikund by 1.30 Pm Lunch at Gaurikund
After lunch,leave by bus for Ukhimutt
Darshan at Ukhimutt temple
(The Kedarji idol is brought here during winter for worship.This is the place where Usha& Aniruddha episode of Mahabharata took place)
After Darshan proceed to Choptha Night Stay in tents at Choptha
(Choptha is the most beautiful inhabited place in Uttarakhand Himalayas included in this tour)
13
Start trekking to Tunganath after breakfast
Darshan at Tunganath and Rudra chanting
(Tunganath is the temple in the highest altitude in In India.This is one among Panch kedar Temples and Lord Shiva is worshipped in the form of arms of buffalo here.)
After Tunganath Darshan proceed to Chandrasila peak -Return to Tunganath and from Tunganath to Choptha bus base-
Proceed by bus to Sari Villagae from where trekking to Deoriya Taal Lake
Deoriya Taal lake is where the Pandavas encountered the Yaksha in the famous Yaksha Prasna
Return trekking to Sari Village
Proceed to Mandal by bus
Stay at Mandal
14
Start trekking in the morning to Rudranath
Arrive Anasuya Matha hamlet
Darshan of the Anasuya Matha Devi
Visit to adjacent athri dhara in front of the cave where Sage Atri (husband of Anasuya and Father of Lord Dattathreya) did penance.This phantom like cave is difficult to be accessed in certain weather conditions.Hence this trek is subject to change.
Proceed trekking to Panar Guha Camp station
Stay at Tents at Panarguha (alias Panargufa)
15
Proceed Trekking to Rudranath Temple
Darshan and Rudra chanting at Rudranath.
(This is one among Panch kedar Temples and Lord Shiva is worshipped as a furious face)
Visit adjacent ponds and Vaitharani River if weather and snowfall is congenial.This visit to ponds are also subject to change
Stay at Rudranath
16
Return Trekking from Rudranath to Panargufa
Stay at Panar Gufa camp
17
From Panar Gufa trek down to Mandal bus base
By bus proceed to Pipalkoti-Stay at Pipalkoti
18
Leave Pipalkoti by bus
Trekking for Urgum Village the base station for Kalpeswar (This is one among Panch kedar Temples.Sage Durvasa did penance under a Kalpa Vriksha, wish fulfilling tree here)
Night stay at Urgam Village
19
Leave Urgam Village,Trekking to Kalpeswar
Darshan of Kalpeswar-Rudra chanting
Return Trek
Proceed by Bus
Darshan at Vridha Badari.
(this is one among the Panch Badris)
Stay at Joshimutt.
(Joshimutt is Jyothirmutt, one of the four seats of Sankaracharyas.The Joshimutt temple is where the Badareesha is worshipped in winter.)
20
After Darshan of Joshimutt temple proceed by bus
trekking to Bhavishya Badari
(Bhavishya Badari is future badari.It is said that Nara and Narayana mountains behind the Badari Vishal or the Badrinath temple will collapse and the path way will be covered with debris.Then the Bhavishya badari will be the Badarinath)
Return trek to Bus base
Proceed by bus to Govindghat
Stay at Govindghat
21
From Govindghat Trekking to Ghangriya
Stay at Ghangriya
(This is the base for trekking to Hemkund Saheb and Valley of flowers)
22
From Ghangriya trek to Valley of Flowers
Return to Ghangriya
23
From Ghangriya trek to Hemkund Saheb
Return to Ghangriya camp and proceed trekking
down to Govindghat
Proceed by bus to Pandukeswar.
Pandukeswar temple darshan and Yoga Badri temple darshan.
(Yog badri or Yogdhyan badri is one among Panch badris)
By Bus to Badrinath.Stay at Badrinath
24
After Vishal Badrinath (Main Badri usually called Badrinath)darshan and breakfast
Trekking to Kesavaprayag
(only place where River Saraswaty is seen.From here to Prayag in Allehabad,the river is underground )
Bhimpul,(The boulder placed by Bhima for Draupadi to cross the river)
Temple of Draupadi (Where she left her mortal coil enroute the Mahaprastana.
Vyas Guha (Where Ganesh wrote Mahabharata,dictated by Vyasa),
Mana (the last village in Indian Soil towards Chinese border)
Vasudhaara falls ( Ashtavarkra’s penance spot)
Swargarohini Peak (distant view.Pandavas walked to the top of this peak which is covered with a glacier now)
Return after half an hour and Arrive Badrinath
Darshan of Badareesa Panchayath at night (Special darshan)Stay at Badrinath.
25
Leave Badrinath by bus in the early morning
Halt at Nandaprayag,Karnaprayag,Devprayag and Rudraprayag
Reach Rishikesh by night. Stay at Rishikesh
26
Leave Rishikesh .Reach Delhi and proceed to Trivandrum
27
In Train
28
Arrival at Trivandrum

The Maximum number of travellers are 23.
The trekking speed is limited to 1 4/3 Km per hour instead of 2km/hour the standard Himalayan trekking speed considering the aged people in the entourage
Pony (mule) or Dholi ( carriage by four coolies) are not available for trekking to Gomukh, Rudranath,Kalpeswar,Tunganath,Bhavishya Badari and Mana Pass
Accommodation is moderate and mostly in tents.
Warm clothing is not provided. To be brought by travellers.
There are chances to get agitated easily at higher altitudes due to low supply of oxygen and intolerant behaviour may upset the spirit of the journey.Hence hypertensive and short tempered persons may kindly excuse,the trip is not for you.
This is more a pilgrimage than an advetorous trekking. Keep the spirit in mind.
The trekking to Deoriya Taal , Vaitharani river,Athri Dhara etc are subject to last minute change according to the weather conditions and local information.
Sri Krishnan Kartha has planned the tour as per the experiences in his previous trip

Panch Kedar Trek Part 3 Kalimath to Madhyamaheswar

2007-05-28T00:30:00.000-07:00

by G.S.Krishnan Kartha

In summer the day gets light by 4.30am in Himalayas, and it is always good to set out as early as possible when you are trekking in the hills. This applies to evening also. we have travelled in bus in twilight even upto 8 PM in June. I don’t know whether this is the case every month. But for trekking you can always get up early and start before the atmosphere gets hotter. Though we wont notice, the sunlight is not soft at Himalayas.

Hailing from Kalimath early you can cover nearly 8 kms within a short time because the terrain in that stretch is rather not undulating, enabling you to reach Ransi. Here an old temple dedicated to a Goddress named Rakeswari is seen. The alcove of the temple is a right spot for resting for a while.Since you have to catch Gaundhar, the night halting place, you should not remain there for long.

The trek to Gaundhar is different from the first stretch. A descent through the pine forests will end in pathway where you can see many pools and waterfalls. The paths are not even clear at some places. On both sides there are plenty of wild strawberries and you may squander your time in plucking them.

Gaundhar is a hamlet where all pilgrims to Madhyamaheswar halt. As I have early told you there is a motorable road too to reach this place. The alternative and better option is Vantoli, hardly a kilometre from Gaundhar.This is the actual base camp before trekking to Madhyamaheswar.This place is more charming than Choptha on the way to Tunganath.Choptha is inhabited commercially while Vantoli is not.There can be seen a confluence of two rivers.Some trekkers venture to bathe in these rivers, but the flow is stronger than we imagine and you can be swept away. A tiny homestead or a barn will be the accommodation for you but the sight of towering peaks and the sound of roaring waters are enough spices. You will get tasty chapathis and leafy vegetable curries here which will be delicious after a long trek.I have heard that curd is also available here. The milk is also sweet as it comes from cows fed on green grass and leaves alone.

The trekking between Vantoli near Gaundhar and Madhyamaheswar is the most difficult part of the journey. Mules and coolies are not seen operating in this path as the forest through which the path goes are rich in carnivorous animals. Hence we don’t have to jostle our way between frisky mules and coolies carrying people on their backs in baskets.This is one of the nicest things about this trip compared to the one to Kedar. Due to its inaccessibility Madmaheswar is off the beaten track for most rich pilgrims.

In this 9 km stretch of stiff climbing, there is only one hamlet where you can get some refreshments.The path winds through deep forests and bare slopes.The trekkers to this region are always warned to be in the look out for bears but I have not seen any reports about that so far.You may come across small creatures unperturbed at your invasion to their territory. You can see the river only as a silver streak far down below, and the roaring of water is just a whisper now.The pink rhododendron flowers on the path is a feast to eyes. As there is no clear cut pathway ,creepers trail their vines across your tired faces as if to comfort you.

The nine kilometers take nearly seven hours. A turn in the track gives us a breathtaking view of the valley, with flower-studded slopes and a gushing stream meandering across it. There you can see the towering peak of the Chaukamba as the the backdrop and the tiny temple nestled at its foot looking as if it was a painted canvas. Another ten minutes brings you right up to the temple.

The priest of the temple normailly hails from the southern state of Karnataka. The four priests of the Shiva temples of Kedarnath, Madmaheswar, Ukhimath and Guptakashi comes from Karnataka as decreed by Adi Shankaracharya and every year, they keep rotating between these temples. The temple is a replica of the Kedar temple but on a miniature scale. There are only two pujas here, one at 8 am and an evening arati at 7 pm. Inside the sanctum is a beautifully decorated lingam, which is the middle portion of Shiva and is encased in a silver covering with the inevitable snake emblem above it. The exquisite puja articles are all made of silver and are exact replicas of the ones at Kedar.

There is only one shop where you can get food. If the owner is unfortunately away the priest may invite you for the supper with him if his provisions permits.Hot rotis with lentil curry is an unsual dish here.The temple authorities provides accommodation which is better than the ones you get on the way.

The arati at the temple is a prolonged affair with much clanging of gongs and bells by the shopkeeper’s children. Unlike other Shiva temples in the north, the devotees are not allowed to enter the sanctum and do the abhishekam. We can only observe from the adjoining room.The villagers around donate the flowers, rice and other offerings for puja. These villages are far below the temple but to these hardy hill tribes a walk of five or six kilometers with an ascent of a thousand meters is nothing. Every morning one of the villagers will come with the daily offering. They wait for the prasadam that is distributed after the puja.

Both the shopkeeper and the priest will regale you with enticing stories of their experiences while you eat your hot supper at the shop.They are really good guides for further trekking.

If you carry provisions and camping materials engaging porters (coolies),the continuous trekking is advisable. The porters are good guides as well.

To be continued in Fourth part : Rudranath

Panch kedar Trek Part 2 Kalimath on the way to Madhyamaheswar

2007-05-26T02:34:00.000-07:00

by G.S.Krishnan Kartha

The journey to Madhya Maheswar (colloquially called Madmaheswar) is not comparable with Kedarnath trekking.When I travelled to Kedarnath in 1992, the path was not so narrow and ascent was not steep either. But the story of Madhya Maheswar is different. The trekking is through dense forests and steep ascents. The flora and fauna are rich. Though there have been no reports of any pilgrim or trekker being attacked, the dense forests in this trekking path are full of carnivorous animals also. So you had better travel in groups that too with a guide as the frequent climatic changes tell upon the identification of the proper route to the destination.

Madmaheswar is situated at the foot of the Chaukamba Peak at an altitude of 3,500m. This is the place where Shiva’s navel is supposed to have emerged. After finishing our Kedar trek one has to return to Gaurikund for the night halt. You can proceed to Guptakashi by vehicle..

Gupta Kashi means hidden Kashi. Kashi is the old name for Varanasi. Guptakashi has an ancient temple of Shiva and derives its name from the fact that this is the place where Shiva is supposed to have hidden himself when the Pandavas chased him. At this place he disappeared and hid himself in a cave. Hence this place is known as Guptakashi or the “hidden Kashi”.

Guptakashi temple is not a spot to be missed. The temple too has some marvels for you. From the both sides of the idol in the sanctum sanctorum, two springs are originated and flowing through sluices to the courtyard of the temple. These two springs are believed to be Ganga and Yamuna. However, you can feel yourself and get convinced that both the springs are different in colour,temperature and taste. In a pond-like ditch you can take bath in both Ganga and Yamuna too!

Those who are keen on a longer trek can get off the bus or car at a place called Devidhar from where there is a delightful forest track up to Kalimath, which is to be the first halting place normally. Alternatively you have an alternate route from Gaundhar which could be reached by taxi from Guptakashi. Of course this route would totally cut out the beautiful temple of Kali Mata.

The three kilometer walk takes us through a thickly wooded slope carpeted with the leaves of pines and deodars, which are centuries old and which dampen our footsteps. This track leads to the stream called Kali. From here the track winds up to the tiny village in which is situated the temple of Kali Mata or the Goddess Kali. The temple is open on all sides and is surrounded by striking red wooden pillars. It is believed to be a siddha peeth in which one of the parts of the Goddess Sati is supposed to have fallen. Siddha peeths are said to have the ability to fulfill all our wishes.

The scripture Devi Mahatmyam has reference to these spots. Legend goes that the Goddess Chandi Devi was sitting on a rock, combing her hair when two demons that were the servitors of the two brothers Shumba and Nishumba saw her and were totally captivated by her intoxicating beauty. They ran back to their masters and reported the matter to them. The rock on which she was sitting is close to this temple.

You can continue the trek after an overnight stay at Kali Math.The camp, needless to say, would be in tents. I don’t know whether Man has made better arrangements there too by now.
The trek continues along an undulated terrain with thickly terraced slopes. The river known as the Madmaheswar Ganga could be seen far below, sparkling in the sunlight. Seven kilometers from Kali Math we can reach the little hamlet known as Raun Lek where you can stayed at a humble homestead.

You are not to be hustled on our journey if you would like to enjoy the scenic beauty and the feel of the land by staying with the peasants and then going slowly .The little room that they give you may not be as clean as one would have liked but the cobbled terrace where they give you dinner has a breathtaking view of the entire valley with the roar of the river thrown in for extra measure. In the distance is the magnificent Chaukamba peak on which the setting sun gives special light effects. No five star hotel can ever boast of such idyllic surroundings.

Sitting on the terrace, you can forget yourself looking at the enchanted night with a sky, studded with huge stars hanging low over your heads! The host would be interested to chat with you with the regaling bits of information coming from one living in such a remote spot.That will never spoil the evening but add fervour to it by realising that you have thrown yourself to Nature….

To be continued in third part : Kalimath to Madhyamaheswar

Panch Kedar trekking Part 1 Kedarnath

2007-05-24T23:13:00.000-07:00

Panch Kedar Trekking
by G.S.Krishnan Kartha

The Legend behind Panch Kedar
It is believed that at the end of their life, the Pandavas (Refer Mahabharatha) decided to give up their kingdom and go to the Himalayas and meditate on their favourite deity, Lord Shiva. So they set out accompanied by their wife, Draupadi. When they reached the place called Rudraprayag, they thought they had a glimpse of Lord Shiva. They tried to chase him but he took on the form of a buffalo and dashed off towards the north. They followed in hot pursuit and eventually caught up with him at the place that is now known as Kedarnath. The Lord now dived into the earth. Only the hind portion of the buffalo was sticking out. This was caught by one of the brothers Bhima. But pull as he might, he couldn’t get the rest of the buffalo out of the ground. The hump now turned into a Shiva Lingam and remained at this place. Each of the other parts appeared at four other places and came to be collectively known as the Panch Kedars or the five Kedars. All these lie in the Garhwal Himalayas in the modern state known as Uttranchal.

The Garhwal Himalayas lie to the north east of the Indian peninsula and is known as the Valley of the Gods. The air is fragrant with the aroma of spirituality. When one gazes at the snow clad peaks and hear the gurgling of the Ganga as she jumps over boulders and rocks and watch the mists rise up from the rivers and valleys one can easily believe that this is indeed the playground of the devas. (Gods). This is the place where countless sages have meditated and become enlightened and the very air is fragrant with the perfume of their amazing vibrations that have lasted through the centuries. The Himalayas are filled with the power and passion of Lord Shiva and in this part of India, we find more shrines to this deity than to any other. The most famous of them is the temple of Kedarnath. Cradled in the bosom of the Himalayan ranges there are four other temples, which along with Kedarnath that go under the name of the Panch Kedars or the five Kedars. They are situated in inaccessible places and provide a challenge to any devotee of Shiva who wishes to worship him in places that are far away from the madding crowd. Shiva is noted for his love of lonely peaks and solitary ranges. His true worshippers should always be prepared to take the leap into the unknown and face all the challenges that he places in their way, as the Pandavas did. Those intrepid ones who actually dare to go to these places will find that they are amply rewarded for their determination and devotion. The air is saturated with Shiva Shakti and one can easily imagine him striding across mountain crags and peaks, his matted hair mingling with the clouds and snakes twirling around his neck!

These five temples are sprawled all over the vast Kedar valley at altitudes ranging from 1500 m. to 3680 m. Out of these Tunganath is the highest at 3,810 m, Kedarnath is 3584 m., Madmaheswar is 3289 m., Rudranath is 2286 m. and Kalpeshwar, 2134 m.

A pilgrimage to the Himalayan shrines can be undertaken only by those who are not haunted by the spectre of Time looming behind them with the proverbial scythe. To these adventurous types, the Himalayan shrines offers a vast storehouse of not mere spiritual merit but also a feeling of profound fullness and satisfaction on all levels of the personality – physical, mental and aesthetic.

Kedarnath

Of these Kedarnath is the biggest of the temples and the most popular. The Shiva Lingam (sign of Shiva) here is a natural rock in the shape of a buffalo’s hump.

Kedarnath is situated at the head of the Mandakini River. It is at an altitude of 3,584 m. with a breathtaking view of the snow capped Himalayas in the background. The temple is made out of huge granite slabs. Adi Shankaracharya, the initiator of the Advaita philosophy is supposed to have worshipped here and fixed the method of puja. With his usual foresight, he made a rule that the pujaris (priests) of this temple should be brought from the state of Karnataka in the south and the priests of Garwal should go to the Shiva temple of Rameshwaram in the south. This is the custom up to this day.

The journey by automobile to Kedarnath starts from the pilgrim town of Rishikesh at the foothills of the Himalayas. The nearest railhead in Rishikesh where you can alight from a train from New Delhi. From here one can take a car or bus and go up to Rudraprayag. This is a famous spot being the confluence of two rivers where the green River Mandakini, which comes from Kedarnath, meets the white River Alakananda, which comes from Badrinath.

From here one has to take the route to the place called Gaurikund, last spot reachable by an automobile. This place, which is dedicated to the goddess Gauri, the consort of Shiva, has a beautiful hot water spring in which all pilgrims are supposed to take a bath. However, when I went to Kedarnath in June 1992, the spot was so crowded with pilgrims that even to touch the hot water was difficult. So I haven’t bathed in Gaurikund. There is a lovely shrine to the goddess Gauri close to the spring.

The 14 km. trek to Kedarnath begins from Gaurikund. We proceeded to trek to Kedarnath as soon as we got down from our chartered bus. Elderly people who do not prefer to walk along the cobbled path upwards can take either ponies (mule) or be carried in something called a doli, which is a kind of hammock, carried by four people. Another method “kamdi” a cane basket carried by prters on shoulders is also used for wightless aged people.The path is slippery due to moisture and pony dung and even the doli is not so safe. But if one among the four carriers of a doli slips all the other three carriers will at once bend their knees and sit on floor to avoid the traveller from falling down to the narrow path.They are trained and experienced in this and I have seen them doing this at many places in this route.If one falls down from doli, there is a remote change of his rolling down to the ravine and get lost in the cold river down the mountain path.

Riding (not actually riding in full sense…) on a pony (mule in guise..) is also equally troublesome. You have to sit disciplined on the horseback , not to drive the horse. The owner of the pony will be guiding it. But a small pull of the reins will irritate the animal and there is every chance of it galloping or even diving in the ravine.

Unlike Yamunotri trekking path, Kedar route is almost through ever green forests.The track is made out of cobbled stones and is quite difficult to walk on. But the problems of the trek are forgotten when we gaze at the breathtaking vistas that open out before our astounded eyes at every turn. All through we are followed by the gurgling sound of the Mandakini as she rushes down the deep gorges and valleys. Actually most of the fascination of the route is spoilt for the earnest pilgrim who goes on foot, by the ponies that come behind and threaten to nudge him off the cliff. The track clings to the hillside that overlooks valleys that are more than 500 km deep so the prospect of being nudged off these cliffs is not such a happy one. . En route we come to a halting place called Rambara where we can have chai (tea) with rotis and proceed further. There are lot of dhabas (road side tea shops) where you can have there refreshments.The prices are higher than those in plains, since all the provision has to be carried on horseback to these mountains in night.

We reached Kedarnath towards sunset. The final phase of the trekking is comparatively easier as the path is just a small ascent with a vast bugyal (meadow) on both the sides. The first view of the temple as we come up is enough to take away all the fatigue of the journey. The stark granite structure of the shrine with the backdrop of silver snow mountain is a scene beyond compare. You literally give a gasp of delight when you see this view. Apart from an inn run by Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (a public enterprise to develop tourism in the area hereafter termed as GMVN) there were no other shops or establishments when we made our journey. Unfortunately the approach road is now filled with modern restaurants and shops so part of the charm is lost ,the latest travel reports say.

Hindu pilgrims are always required to take a bath before they enter any temple.Unfortunately, there is no hot spring here as there is at Badrinath or Yamunotri, so one has to take a bath in the icy waters of the Mandakini. However ,I was told that,in the past few years two and three-star hotels have sprung up so hot and cold showers are available in the bathrooms. In June 1992, when there were no such facilities.

Unlike Vishnu temples where the devotee is not allowed into the sanctum sanctorum, in Shiva temples you can go right up to the lingam and do one’s own abhishekam (ritualistic pouring of water over the idol) as well as touch the idol. This is a great thrill for everybody.

The pujari with the title “Mahanth”(priest) is there and will also do a puja for you if you so wish. In fact there are many pujas during the course of the day in which you can participate. The lingam is a huge hump-shaped rock that is anointed and decorated very beautifully. Shiva is supposed to be “abhisheka priya” (one who loves to have water poured over him) while Vishnu is said to be “alankaara priya” (one who loves to be beautifully dressed), so you will find that Shiva Lingams are never as beautifully decorated as the idols of Vishnu.

We witnessed the Night Arati ( camphor lighting ritual marking the finale of daily routine in the temple) to Kedar Nath and a different style of showing that was noticed by me.I saw the same style being adopted in many parts of Garhwal and later adopted this rhythmic style in our ceremonial worship for Sai Baba of Shirdi.

At the approach of winters in the month of November, the holy statue of Lord Shiva, is car carried down from Garhwal (Kedarkhand) to Ukhimath, and is reinstated at Kedarnath, in the first week of May. It is at this time, that the doors of the temple are thrown open to pilgrims, who flock from all parts of India, for a holy pilgrimage. The shrine closes on the first day of Kartik (Oct-Nov) and reopens in Vaishakh (Apr-May) every year. During its closure the shrine is submerged in snow and worship is performed at Ukhimath. Shri Badrinath and Shri Kedarnath Mandir Samiti manage this temple. The Samiti (council)was constituted in the year 1939 under the Badrinath Temple Act no. 16,1939.
The Area of this pilgrim centre is 3 sq.km at an altitude 3,581 mtrs above sea level.The ideal time to visit shall be May to October (The temple & township remains closed between November & May) with woollen and heavy woollen clothing. The population according to 1991 census is 301.One Govt dispensary is here for urgent needs. STD code is 01372-86 .A sub Post office is also seen here. A branch of State Bank of India is working at Kedarnath now.
We stayed in a choultrey near the temple at moderate rates.I do not remember the cost. The floor was with wooden planks with gaps.One among us lost the pendent of his chain.We got up early in the morning and went to Temple again and hurried to trek down to Gaurikund. We did not visit any other places nearby.

The return journey is also to be covered in one day if one plans for Madhyamaheswar trek. There is a short stop at Rambara and then on to Gaurikund where one has to stay the night and then proceed to the next shrine known as Madhyamaheswar.

The other spot near Kedarnath temple,usually visited by not-so-adventurous pilgrims is the samadhi of Adi Shankaracharya. There is a lot of debate about the place where Adi Shankaracharya actually passed away. One faction claims that it was at Kedarnath so there is a shrine here to this most renowned teacher of the Advaita philosophy, which is the philosophy of non-duality.

Another spot is Lake Chorabari ,renamed as Gandhi Sarovar by Indian government. It is a small lake from where Yudhishthir, the eldest of the Pandavas, is believed to have departed to heaven.Reported trekking is 1 km. ( I shall drop a blog on this place later)

Adventurous trekkers can take up a journey to Vasuki Tal an extraordinary lake located about 6 km. from Kedarnath, at a height of 4135 m from the sea level. Surrounded by lofty mountain peaks, the lake offers an amazing view of the Chaukhamba peaks.

To be continued in second part : Madhyamaheswar